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Cowboy hats

Cowboy Hat Styles and Creases

The crease on top is the hat's personality. Same felt, different crease, totally different person under it.

The short answer

Cowboy hat styles are named mostly by the crown crease. The cattleman, with one long center crease and a dent on each side, is the classic. A pinch front is pinched at the front and softer-looking. A gambler has a low, flat round crown. Brick, Gus, Montana and Tom Mix are variations. Felt creases can be reshaped with steam; most straw ones can't.

Crease What it looks like Wear it if
Cattleman High crown, long center crease, a dent on each side You want the classic western look
Pinch front Pinched at the front over a diamond or teardrop top You want something softer and flattering
Gambler Low, round crown, little or no crease, slightly wider brim You’re tall or want shade on your eyes
Brick Flat, rectangular crease down the middle You want traditional with an edge
Gus Cattleman with the front pinched down, sloping forward You like a weathered, old-trail look
Montana Deeper center crease, lighter side dents You want a less traditional cattleman
Tom Mix Taller crown, often a light felt with a ribbon band You want something showy and vintage
Open crown Rounded top with no crease You want to crease it yourself later
Low rodeo Lower crown, big brim You’re headed to the arena

Descriptions follow American Hat Makers’ styles guide.

How does the brim change the look?

The crown gets the attention, but the brim finishes the sentence. A flat brim looks modern and city. A gentle curl at the sides is the everyday western shape. A hard curl, sometimes called a taco, looks rodeo. Wider brims add drama and shade; narrower ones look tidy and fit better in a truck.

How do you choose a crease?

Start with the cattleman if you’re unsure. It’s the reference point for every other crease, and it’s the most common crown among the cowboy hats in our feed. Then try a pinch front for contrast. Most people know which one is “them” within about four seconds of seeing it in a mirror.

Can you change a crease at home?

Felt can be re-creased. Hold a section over a steaming kettle until it softens, shape it with your fingers, and hold it until it cools. Work slowly, one section at a time, and keep your skin out of the steam. For a crown makeover, a hat shop will do it neatly. Straw is less forgiving, so buy the crease you want.

What’s the best cattleman cowboy hat?

The best cattleman is the one in your size with a brim that matches your build: about four inches for most people, a bit wider for broad shoulders, a touch narrower for a smaller frame. Black or brown felt for a first hat, natural straw for summer. The cattleman is the most common crown in our cowboy hat feed, so you’ll have plenty to choose from on the cowboy hats page, and our best cowboy hats list ranks them on published criteria.

Cody’s take: if a stranger has to ask whether it’s a cowboy hat, it isn’t a cattleman.

Hats that fit this guide

We may earn a commission when you buy through store links on this page, at no extra cost to you. American Hat Makers is our Preferred Brand, chosen by us and always labeled. Details.

Mens Cream Straw Cowboy Hat
Cowboy hat · Brim 4 in (10 cm) · Crown 4 1/2 in
XSSMMDLGXLXX3X
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Price as of Nov 6
Womens Cream Straw Cowgirl Hat
Cowboy hat · Brim 4 in (10 cm) · Crown 4 1/2 in
XSSMMDLGXLXX3X
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*Per American Hat Makers
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At American Hat Makers · Preferred Brand. We earn a commission if you buy, at no cost to you.
Price as of Nov 6
Mens Blackstone Leather Cowboy Hat
Cowboy hat · Brim 3 in (8 cm) · Crown 4 in
Assembled in USA*
SMMDLGXLXX3X
Ships in 1 day, guaranteed*90-day easy returns*50-year craftsmanship guarantee*
*Per American Hat Makers
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At American Hat Makers · Preferred Brand. We earn a commission if you buy, at no cost to you.
Price as of Nov 6
Mens Black Leather Cowboy Hat
Cowboy hat · Brim 3 3/4 in (10 cm) · Crown 4 1/2 in
Chin cord
SMMDLGXLXX3X
Ships in 1 day, guaranteed*90-day easy returns*50-year craftsmanship guarantee*
*Per American Hat Makers
Check price
At American Hat Makers · Preferred Brand. We earn a commission if you buy, at no cost to you.
Price as of Nov 6
Womens Black Leather Cowgirl Hat
Cowboy hat · Brim 3 3/4 in (10 cm) · Crown 4 1/2 in
Chin cord
SMMDLGXLXX3X
Ships in 1 day, guaranteed*90-day easy returns*50-year craftsmanship guarantee*
*Per American Hat Makers
Check price
At American Hat Makers · Preferred Brand. We earn a commission if you buy, at no cost to you.
Price as of Nov 6
Cal$89
Mens Natural Vented Crown Woven Bangora Straw Cowboy Hat
Cowboy hat · Brim 4 in (10 cm) · Crown 4 1/2 in
Vented
SMMDLGXLXX
Ships in 1 day, guaranteed*90-day easy returns*50-year craftsmanship guarantee*
*Per American Hat Makers
Check price
At American Hat Makers · Preferred Brand. We earn a commission if you buy, at no cost to you.
Price as of Nov 6
Womens Blackstone Leather Cowgirl Hat
Cowboy hat · Brim 3 in (8 cm) · Crown 4 in
Assembled in USA*
SMMDLGXLXX
Ships in 1 day, guaranteed*90-day easy returns*50-year craftsmanship guarantee*
*Per American Hat Makers
Check price
At American Hat Makers · Preferred Brand. We earn a commission if you buy, at no cost to you.
Price as of Nov 6
Mens Gray Bangora Straw Cowboy Hat
Cowboy hat · Brim 4 in (10 cm) · Crown 4 1/2 in
SMMDLGXL
Ships in 1 day, guaranteed*90-day easy returns*50-year craftsmanship guarantee*
*Per American Hat Makers
Check price
At American Hat Makers · Preferred Brand. We earn a commission if you buy, at no cost to you.
Price as of Nov 6
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Questions people ask

What are the different cowboy hat styles?
The common creases are cattleman, pinch front, gambler, brick, Gus, Montana, Tom Mix, open crown and low rodeo. American Hat Makers' styles guide describes all of them. The Boss of the Plains is the original 1865 Stetson design with a rounded crown and flat brim. Brim shape adds another layer: flat, slightly curled, or curled hard at the sides.
What is the Boss of the Plains?
John B. Stetson's original cowboy hat, from 1865. It had a flat brim and a straight-sided crown with rounded corners, about four inches each way, in a natural color. Stetson was the first to market a hat like it to cowboys, and you can think of most later creases as new dents pressed into that idea.
What is a gambler hat?
A cowboy hat with a noticeably low, round crown, either with no crease or one circular crease around the top, and a slightly wider brim. It looks flat and sharp from the side. American Hat Makers points to it if you want a hat that shades your eyes. Tall folks like it because it doesn't add much height.
What is a cattleman crease?
A high crown with one long crease down the middle and a dent on each side. American Hat Makers calls it the traditional cowboy hat design, and it usually comes with a generous brim. It's the shape most people draw when they draw a cowboy hat, and it's the most common crown among the cowboy hats in our feed.
What is the difference between a cattleman and a gambler cowboy hat?
Height and shape. A cattleman has a tall crown with one long center crease and a dent on each side, usually with a generous brim that curls at the sides. A gambler sits low with a flat, round top, either uncreased or with one circular crease, and a flatter brim. Cattleman reads ranch and rodeo. Gambler reads riverboat and old-west card table.
What is a pinch front cowboy hat?
A crown pinched along both sides at the front, sitting over a diamond or teardrop-shaped top. American Hat Makers says it works for men and women and tends to make a face look slightly thinner. It looks a bit softer and more modern than a cattleman, and it's a favorite on cowgirl hats.
What is a brick crease?
A flat, rectangular crease pressed down the middle of the crown, sometimes with side dents and sometimes without. It reads boxier and more old-school than a cattleman. American Hat Makers suggests it if you want the traditional look with a little individuality.
What is a Gus crease?
A cattleman variation with the front of the crown pinched down so the top slopes from back to front. It's tall in the back and lower in front, which gives it a weathered, old-trail look. It's popular with people who like a western hat that looks like it has a story.
Can you change the crease on a cowboy hat?
On felt, yes. Steam softens the felt; you press a new shape and hold it until it cools. Small tweaks work at home with a kettle. A full re-crease is cleaner at a hat shop. Straw is harder: American Hat Makers says its straw brims reshape only if there's a wire inside, and crowns are best left to a pro.
What's the difference between a cowboy hat and a rancher hat?
Rancher is a store's name for a style, and it varies by brand. In our feed, hats labeled rancher are a separate group from cowboy hats, and their listings name the crown and brim in the details. Read the crown and brim lines on the product page rather than relying on the label.

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